Climbing the Heights: A new Christmas tradition?

The view from Maryland Heights Overlook across from Harpers Ferry can only be seen after climbing the trail. Toni Milbourne
HARPERS FERRY — The town of Harpers Ferry draws thousands of visitors each year, many of whom come not only to see the picturesque village, but to hike the trails surrounding it. The town is the mid-point of the Appalachian Trail and has other trails nearby that draw in hikers.
Christmas Eve saw many hikers headed across the footbridge of the Shenandoah to the C&O Canal towpath, headed for the entrance to the Maryland Heights trailhead. This reporter, for the first time since moving to Harpers Ferry in 1995, made the trek and headed upward, despite the trepidation of doing so.
The trail, I discovered later, is designated as moderate to strenuous, depending upon which segments one chooses to follow. According to the National Historical Park website, the trail offers “spectacular scenery, aspects of geology, Civil War, industrial and transportation history.” It also adds that the quickest route to the Maryland Heights Overlook is 4.5 miles round trip from the park’s Information Center.
Joining me in my excursion was daughter, Maggie, who frequently visits the overlook and who can reach those peaks in quick time using what she refers to as “the goat path,” which amounts to a straight up path not conducive to beginning hikers. To avoid that route, we traversed the towpath and headed up the traditional path frequented by so many hikers. While not initially overly strenuous, the continual incline does not take long leading to increased heart rate, heavier breathing and burning leg muscles.
Thankfully my child took pity on her mother and agreed to “rest” frequently on the uphill climb.

Toni Milbourne stands with her daughter, Maggie, at the Maryland Heights Overlook on Christmas Eve. Courtesy photo
Reaching the 1862 Naval Battery site was a welcome milestone as it offered a nice view of the Potomac River. It was, sadly, not the end of the upward journey. Following the red-marked trail toward the Overlook Cliff, the path continued to turn upward until, finally, it evened out a bit. Catching a grateful breath, it was with some excitement we began a descent to the overlook.
The descent, though, quickly became a path of rocky terrain — a challenge to a middle-aged, out-of-shape woman, who is much more comfortable on flat land. The path downward, through and over the rocks, is allegedly half a mile according to the National Park Service. It seemed much longer as it laid to rest any vision of a nice even path to the beautiful rocky overlook seen in countless photographs.
The overlook, once reached, offered spectacular views of the quaint village of Harpers Ferry across the rivers. Even from the area behind the huge rocks at the edge of the overlook, the glimpses were worth the strenuous efforts taken to reach the pinnacle.
Excitement quickly diminished when, turning around, I was faced with the uphill climb over the rocks for the half-mile or so that led, finally, to the path back down the mountainside. Although calf muscles continued to burn on the downhill journey, breathing tended to even out and the pace to move more rapidly.
It was with skeptical looks at an extended trail, known as the Stone Fort Trail, that I remotely considered ever seeing the historic sites to be found on the extended path. Adding additional miles was not something that met approval Christmas Eve or after.
So, would the trek become a yearly tradition? Giving it some thought on the easier path downward, it was with amusement I got the same question from Maggie. While certainly a beautiful view and something worth seeing, I do not believe I will make the journey again. Rather than tradition, it is more a bucket list item — now checked off.
For those who also wish to check that item off the list, I simply suggest taking a good amount of time, carrying water and knowing that it’s one of those things not always easy, but worth it just the same.
- The view from Maryland Heights Overlook across from Harpers Ferry can only be seen after climbing the trail. Toni Milbourne
- Toni Milbourne stands with her daughter, Maggie, at the Maryland Heights Overlook on Christmas Eve. Courtesy photo