John C. Campbell Folk School instructor Melissa Dunning looks at a scarf that needs mended in the Shepherdstown Public Library on Feb. 9. Tabitha Johnston

SHEPHERDSTOWN — Shepherdstown resident Melissa Dunning could be found holding up a scarf to the light and giving feedback on how to mend it professionally, during her first Mending Clinic in the Shepherdstown Public Library on Feb. 9.

Half-a-dozen women with varying levels of mending experience — from none to some — gathered around Dunning, as she shared with them the various kinds of mending styles and techniques they would need to know, to mend the hole-riddled garments they had brought with them.

“I brought a sweater of my husband’s — it’s a sweater he got in Ireland when we went there about 15 years ago,” said Diane Kradel, of Shepherdstown. “He tore a hole in it. It’s lasted for quite a few years, but it would be nice if it could last a few years more! It’s a wonderful memory of the trip.”

Kradel said she has mended clothing before, but thought she would enjoy participating in the clinic with other likeminded women. Standing beside her was Natalia Eyestone, of Shepherdstown, a knitter who said she had no knowledge of proper mending techniques, although she had tried to mend some clothing over the years.

“I’m excited to learn some new stuff!” Eyestone said. “I’ve got a darning tool that I want to learn how to use.”

John C. Campbell Folk School instructor Melissa Dunning teaches a group of women about the different mending methods in the Shepherdstown Public Library on Feb. 9. Tabitha Johnston

Dunning teaches classes on hand weaving, spinning and knitting throughout the year at conferences and folk schools, including the John C. Campbell Folk School in Brasstown, N.C., but said this was the first time she has professionally taught a class on mending. However, she said she was excited to begin sharing her mending knowledge with others, through holding clinics like this one.

“For a long time, I’ve thought that it would be good to have a Mending Clinic for people to just drop in. I’ve read about these happening in cities, where people who do not know how to mend can come to a place and learn how to make their clothing last longer,” Dunning said. “It seemed like an excellent idea!”

According to Dunning, learning how to make clothing last longer is both better for the environment and for people’s pocket books.

“I just bought this beautiful cashmere sweater at Goodwill for $7,” Dunning said, before pointing out a couple of holds in it. “These can be easily mended, and no one will be able to tell the difference!”

She then noted that the production of new clothing, even when it is from sustainable and renewable fibers, is not good for the environment.

“Aside from the whole spinning and dying and weaving creating a lot of pollution, just growing cotton is demanding on the environment,” Dunning said, speaking of one of the most common renewable fibers on the market. “It takes a lot of soil and water and land! Commercial cotton growing also takes a lot of pesticides — combine that with the dying process, and it is really toxic!

“There are a lot of steps along the way, where pollution is created,” Dunning said. “Then, we’re adding to its environmental impact by growing it in one place and manufacturing it in another. If you start looking at your clothing labels, it’s amazing to see how many places your clothing has been shipped to complete, before it’s shipped here. It’s crazy!”

Buying high-quality clothing, which will last longer and, thereby, requires less clothing in their replacement, is best for the environment, but not affordable for many people.

With these facts in mind, Dunning considers mending to be an essential skill that everyone should learn.

“Being able to mend your clothes and to extend the life of them is an altogether good idea,” Dunning said.